Friday 15 March 2013

New SFS lace test patch

I just received a piece of SFS (Superfine Swiss) lace that I ordered through Northwest Lace in the US.  They are actually a hairpiece company, not a wig materials supplier, but I had heard that their SFS was very good quality, so I contacted the owner, Eric, to see if it would be possible to buy a piece.  He very kindly agreed, and arranged with his factory to have a yard of SFS shipped out to me.

The SFS is much finer than the lace I have been using previously, and has definitely taken some getting used to.  Although it is quite delicate and more fragile than my other lace, the main problem I am having is just being able to see which hole to knot into.  Not only is it finer, so more difficult to see, but also the lace has a bit more more stretch, so the holes actually move around slightly while you're ventilating, making it more difficult to maintain any kind of pattern.

However, the end result is fantastic, and I will definitely be using the SFS at least for the front of my next piece.  Below are a few shots of just a small test piece I completed just to see how well the SFS worked for me.  The small (1 by 2 inch) patch is attached low on my forehead to avoid my own natural hair.  This time I have just attached with got2b glued hair gel.  Even with the got2b, the attachment is fantastic, but I would imagine with a proper adhesive, the lace will disappear completely.

One thing I'm not happy with this time is the knot-bleaching.  I decided to use all double knots in this test, to see if they would be feasible in the front hairline for the sake of durability.  I used a 40vol. developer to bleach them, which I would normally leave on for 30 minutes max.  However, I ended up bleaching this piece twice, a total of 60 minutes, and the knots are still too visible for my liking.

So, I will be back to using single knots when I start the next full piece, at least for the hairline area.  For me, it's definitely worth sacrificing a bit of durability for the most undetectable hairline possible.  I'm glad I discovered this on a small test patch rather than after I had ventilated an entire hairpiece with double knots!

One other thing regarding bleaching: recently I have been adding a few drops of Ardell Red Gold Corrector Plus to the bleach mix, and it really does a great job of neutralizing those nasty yellow tones that you often get.






This shows the test patch pinned to a styro head during the bleaching process.

8 comments:

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    1. Glad you're finding it interesting. I really have to start updating more often!

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  2. Hey! Your blog is incredible, I'm a girl and I have a relatively high hairline and I'm thinking of doing this method that you use I just have NO idea how to get it started, I've browsed through your blog but you don't really have an in depth tutorial on how you make it, do you just buy the lace and then insert the hair somehow? Where do you purchase the hair? Sorry for all the questions, I just would like to make one myself! :)

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    1. Hi Lala, thanks for your comments - I'm glad you find the blog useful! There are lots of great videos on YouTube if you search 'Hair Ventilation'. That should get you off to a good start. There is also a really great book called Wig Making and Styling: A Complete Guide for Theatre by Martha Ruskai, which has lots of great information. I buy the hair on eBay mostly. I often buy the inexpensive wefted hair (usually Brazilian) and it works well for my purposes. If you search 'Brazilian Remy Hair Weft' on eBay you should get a lot of hits.

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  3. As I have bleached a test batch of single knots (with European Hair) with 40 % developer for 25 minutes, they turned red and the knots actually swell and loosened to the point that the hair fell out. Did you experience this during your bleaching?

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    1. No I have never had that problem. For the red colour, I always add Ardell Red Gold Corrector Plus to the bleach mixture. Just a few drops and the knots are never bright and brassy. Lately I have only been leaving the 40 vol. developer on 15 minutes and it works perfectly.

      For the loosening knots, I can't imaging why that would happen. The only time I have ever had that problem is when I washed a piece in hot water. Could the water have been too hot when you washed off the bleach solution?

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